Understanding Healthy Hair Part 1
Description: I created this blog on the topic of Hair because we all have a relationship with our hair. Hair has been a source of power for how people are perceived in the real world. Sometimes it brings unity and sometimes it causes racial divisions. From what we know is that hair types do not discriminate but they are broken down into 4 categories. These categories include; Straight, Wavy, Curly, and Coily. Yes, I want to bring this up because there are a lot of stereotypes of how people are perceived when coming to ethnic groups.
A few questions that come to mind are what is considered healthy hair? Do you have healthy hair? Lastly, how is this all determined? I know that this can cause people to have high levels of anxiety when they start running these tests on themselves. Some of the stresses that cause damage and unhealthy hair are from using chemicals, tension to the scalp, and adhesives not applied correctly or on for too long.
The 4 Hair Types:
There will be photos shown to give a more visual of what the strains will look like in their natural state with no products added. Along with the photos I will give a detailed description to help give content on the textures. As mentioned: This is for educational purposes and not to pass judgment or create a hierarchy amongst the groups mentioned.
Type 1: Straight
Straight hair is just as it is stated. It can be pin straight or have a slight wave in the spectrum of texture. This hair type can be described as oily which makes the hair straight as it is weighed down. A few things to note are that in this type of hair, the strands lay flat against the head and are known for being shiny and smooth in their natural state. Type 1 hair is easily managed and can be resistant to holding up-dos and curly styles that are created through heat styling tools. Straight hair also can come in many forms in thickness and feeling going from fine, medium, and course
Some concerns for Straight texture are that it could be oily, dryness, heat damage, dullness, and frizz. This could be affected by the products you use on your hair and how often your maintenance is. It is recommended for this hair texture if your strands are fine to wash daily if it is medium to course every other day or multiple times a week to prevent build-up. Use no more than 4 products daily including (Shampoo, Conditioner, and Styling Products).
Type 2: Wavy
Wavy hair is similar to curly hair but the difference is the shape of the pattern. Type 2 hair is described as its pattern being an S-shape. This hair texture can be broken into 3 categories. 2A, 2B, and 2C. 2A tends to have a tousled texture. 2B has a defined S-shaped wave which can be found in the length and how it starts straight at the root. 2C has a more defined wave than 2B and starts from the root and down the length of the hair. To better understand the difference better the less the wave the less of a frizz and less maintenance your hair will be.
For 2A hair, it is recommended to use lightweight products that cleanse and condition the hair. For types 2B and 2C it is stated that hair should be washed every 4-5 days so the oils that come with curly/wavy hair don’t weigh the strands down. Remember it is important to focus on the scalp and then the rest of the hair for best results. Try using creams, conditioners, and hair masks.
Type 3: Curly
Curly hair is similar to wavy hair with a different characteristic and maintenance. Type 3 hair has a more defined S-shape at the root to ends unlink Wavy hair where it is straight at the root. These curls can come in a looser form as in 3A to a tighter more defined in 3C. The shape of the curl is defined as 3A being well defined and has a springy cure with a looping S-shape the size of sidewalk chalk, 3B has a spiral curl that can look like a bouncy ringlet to the tight corkscrew size of a thick marker, lastly, we have 3C have a more dense cure with the width of a pencil or corkscrew ringlet blend.
To keep up maintenance with this texture it is important to cleanse the hair and make sure you detangle from tip to the root vs root to tip to avoid breakage. Type 3 hair is prone to frizz due to its curl pattern and dryness to avoid this make sure you pat the strands dry rather than rubbing with a towel. It is recommended to wash hair every week to every other week and to be styled with gels, masks, hydrating shampoos, and conditioners. It is also recommended to air dry the hair rather than using heat tools to define curls. If hair has high porosity it is recommended to use heat tools to seal in the cuticles
Type 4: Coily
Coily hair can be defined as zigzagged kinky textured hair. Some characteristics of the hair are that it comes in many forms being very dry and spongy. The hair can feel and look soft and fine or coarse and wiry. The curl is tight to the scalp and is known for being prone to shrinkage at 75% of actual length. What differentiates the textures of 4A, 4B, and 4C is the level of density and compact the hair gets when at 100% dry by the end of styling.
This could be looked at as high maintenance hair type as it is prone to breakage and needs more attention when styling and using products. Because of its characteristics, it is the most versatile out of hair types as it can be manipulated to hold looks such as straightening looks braids, and other hairstyles. It is important to use hydrating products such as shampoos, leave-in conditioners, and creams to keep the follicles intact and keeping it looking fresh.
How Do I Understand My Hair?:
In this section, you will get an understanding of what is your hair and how it communicates with you. People fail to realize that your health affects the strands that come out from your scalp. Try this exercise for yourself. Look in the mirror and tell your hair that you believe it is beautiful and that you love it. Once you do that ask your hair does it feels healthy or do you feel like it is being neglected. Now that you had this short conversation with your hair it is time to run some tests. Most of these tests can be done in your home unless you feel like you need more advice from a Germotogist.
Get To Know Your Scalp:
The first thing to know about your haircare journey is to understand the base. The base is referred to as your scalp. This is where your strands come from and must be kept at a high maintenance level of priority. If the scalp is not maintained properly the protein keratin that your hair is made of won’t grow and will be acceptable to breakage from either the ends to the root. There are 3 types of scalps that you may encounter. First is Oily scalp, this is when you wash your hair in the morning and your hair gets a lot of build up by mid-day and leaves your hair feeling oily and shiny showcasing that your hair is imbalanced. Second is the Dry scalp, which looks like the desert. This is when the scalp is sensitive which causes dandruff and maybe a condition that feels itchy or some type of tension resistance against the strands. The last type is a Normal scalp, this is the best for those who don’t get a lot of build-up from oils and don't experience dry or flaky scalp.
Understanding Porosity:
This wouldn’t be a blog of mine unless I throw in some vocabulary. Now let's talk about one of the most important aspects of understanding your hair is porosity. Porosity refers to how your hair strands can absorb moisture. There are three types of porosity when it comes to healthy hair Low, Normal, and High porosity. Low-porosity hair is considered healthier verse high porosity is considered damaged. Normal porosity hair tends to be the easiest to work with because products can penetrate through the hair strains and retain moisture.
Low Porosity
It is a myth that this is unhealthy hair
It is one of the easiest types of hair to penetrate through strands
Keeps hair hydrated once a week to every two weeks.
It is recommended to use hair oils before cleansing the hair with shampoos
You can overhydrate hair so be cautious about the frequency
Use water-based products to lower protein that will help avoid build-up as low porosity can easily get weighed down
High Porosity
If your hair is experiencing dryness, frizz, and brittle you have high porosity
Hair can take water but can't retain moisture
This type of hair is common for people who have chemically treated hair (Color, Relaxers, Texturizers, Chemical Imbalance, Sunlight, etc)
The protein of the hair structure of hair is damaged at the cuticle layer
Don’t wash hair too often or it will strip the cuticles from the strands
It’s recommended to use a heat protectant to help seal the cuticle from further damage from heat styling tools
It is essential to use ingredients like oils, butter shampoos, and conditioners to close the cuticles
Normal Porosity
Know as the waist hair type to maintain since the cuticles tend to be looser
Moisture penetrates through strands with ease
People with this hair type have medium porosity hair
It is recommended to use a deep conditioning mask to retain hair’s health
Helps to retain moisture and absorption to achieve better styling results
Use shea butter to help strengthen and replenish moisture
5 Hair Porosity Test:
Test 1: Absorb Test
Soak your hair with water
If your hair soaks up the water easily then you have high-porosity hair
If water your hair takes a long time to absorb you have low porosity hair
If hair doesn't take too long or too short you have normal porosity hair
Test 2: Hair & Body Test
If your hair dries faster than your body you have high-porosity hair
If your body dries faster than your hair you have normal to low porosity hair
Test 3: Float Test
Strands must be clean and from various areas of the scalp
Make sure water is at room temperature
Drop strands of hair
Leave in for 5 to 10 minutes
If hair
Sinks to bottom you have high porosity hair
Floats in the middle you have normal porosity hair
If it’s at the top you have low porosity hair
Test 4: The Strand Test
Moving your hair from the ends to the root
If hair feels bumpy or rough that means you have cuticle layers = High porosity hair
If hair feels smooth then you have normal or low porosity hair
Type 5 Mostiorizing Test
When you apply products on hair like creams and it sits on your hair without absorbing into strands you have low porosity hair
If hair absorbs into hair and feels dry over a short amount of time you have high-porosity hair
If hair absorbs products into strands and feels moisturized all day you have normal porosity hair
Hair Density:
Hair density refers to the amount of strands of hair that are growing from your scalp. This will determine how thick your hair is. First, you want to grab some tread and cut a piece of it. Second, grab a strand or two from different areas of your head. Recommended to brand from the middle or back as the perimeter of the scalp is on the thinner side. You want to compare the thickness of the sewing thread to your strands and see if it's thinner or thicker. If it is thinner than the thread your hair is fine. If your strands are thicker than the thread then your hair is thick. Next test you want to do the ponytail test. This is easier to test if your hair is even length than if you have layers. So tie your hair up in the middle of all strands that can reach and perform the circumference test. Make sure it is sturdy and wrap it around 2 or 3 times around your hair. Slide the brand from your hair and keep it at that dimension. Grab some measuring tape or a ruler and measure the band to find out the thickness. If it is less than 2 inches it's Thin. Medium if between 2 to 3 inches. Super thick if it's 4 inches or more.
Products To Use To Maintain Healthy Hair:
Shampoos- Used to cleanse the scalp and strands from the build-up
Conditioners- Ensures that the hair has the nourishment that can make the strands softer and more manageable when styling
Leave In Conditioner- Helps to infuse hydration and protects the strands (Can be applied to dry or freshly washed hair)
Protein Treatments- Restores strength to the strands to protect against damage. (Should be applied every 4-6 weeks to avoid protein overload)
Diet- You are what you eat and make sure the foods you eat are healthy and well-balanced to nourish the body and hair.
Products: Use these products to keep maintenance with your hair. Treat your hair like a plant and nurture it with love and care. I will not mention any brand names but I will tell you what products to use to cleanse your scalp and the strands that are attached. From reading this article you understand that there are two types of hair states that your hair could be in when it comes to health. Avoid using brands that claim at are for all hair textures as every texture requires its maintenance of attention and products. The power of marketing to get you to spend more than what you need to. There is unhealthy hair and healthy hair. These personalities will appear as follows;
My Hair Is Unhealthy: When hair is in an unhealthy state it is important to communicate with the strands. Does it pass the porosity test, does it feel limp and fragile? Signs letting you know that your hair needs some upkeep to restore it to a healthier state. Remember there is no such thing as bad hair. Just take action now to prevent future damage and restore it back to 100% powerful
My Hair Is Healthy: When your hair is healthy or considered on the healthier spectrum it means that you're taking the right steps and have been applying techniques and products as shared in this article. Keeping a balanced diet and healthy body will help stimulate strong protein keratin that will grow out of your scalp and to your ends.
Protective Styles
Weaves
Pros:
The most versatile type of extension that blends with your natural hair left out
Gives hair braided underneath to take a break from damage and styling
The illusion that it is growing from the scalp
Cons:
Can be expensive when investing in human hair
Can’t be left in hair for longer than 6 weeks at a time
Can experience scalp irritation
Wigs
Pros:
Offers your whole scalp a break from stresses such as coloring and heat damage
Human hair wigs can look like it is growing from the scalp
Ease of customization without touching your own
Cons:
Requires a professional to apply correctly with adhesives or your real hair could fall out
Can get expensive depending on the type of hair, length, and density
Can slip off if not tied or glued down for security reasons
Braids
Pros
No heat is needed to apply strands
Lower maintenance for upkeep
Versatile in designs for events, hot weather conditions, and everyday occasions
Cons
If braids are installed too tight they can add tension can cause breakage
Can take a long time depending on the style and length being added
Fusions
Pros:
Durability lasts longer than other methods of hair extensions ranging from 3 to 6 months
Looks more natural as more hair is left out in strand by strand method
Adds volume and length to your hair
Cons:
Hair is left out and can experience damage if too much heat is applied
Takes a long time to apply individually ranging from 2+ hours
Very expensive to buy and get installed by a highly skilled professional
Clip-Ins
Pros
Versatile where it gives you flexibility as to where they can be placed
Can add volume and color to your hair without pulling on strands
Convenience of adding hair without committing to a style
Cons
Have to take them out at night to prevent them from getting damaged
Your hair is blended with the extensions so you potential to damage your hair
The cost of hair regarding length, textures, and colors, and if it is human hair can make it expensive
Conclusion:
I want to say a special thank you to everyone who made it through this article. It was fun doing all the research and finding out more information about how hair plays a major role in our society. Hair research goes back centuries and has been a way to segregate and empower people of many communities. The more that we try to educate ourselves about our bodies, mind, and spirits the more that we will feel prepared when facing challenges that come with maintaining a healthy scalp from root to tip. Feel free to watch my full video and leave some comments on your takeaways from reading this article and what I have shared with you and share your hair journey. Don’t be afraid to ask questions other you won't grow. Look into old remedies that were shared generation after generation as new products and technologies are evolving at a constant pace.
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